Life Along the Sepik River (PNG)
Our boat on the Sepik River
(Jolie) We left the southern highlands where it was cool and mountainous and flew to the middle Sepik River Valley where it was flat and hot. We got on a boat with our group and stayed on it for 3 nights. We watched some locals fishing on small wooden canoes wide enough to fit one person and long enough to fit up to seven. They used a stick as a pole and a string to catch the fish. Once they caught a fish they used a machete to scale the fish. Next they started a fire and put two pieces of bamboo as a tiny platform to grill the fish in the canoe. When it was ready they brought it home to eat. Along with the fish, they make sago pancakes out of sago palm trees.
Fishing on the river
The next day we continued to visit more villages. The name of the first village was Kraimbit. It was an hour boat ride to this village. On the way we saw some egrets floating on tiny logs going downstream instead of flying. We went past a fishing village and saw some people fishing. There were two canoes filled with food supplies that they were going to sell or trade to make money. Our boat went through a narrow waterway with wild sugar cane stalks sticking out and hitting the boat which was probably meant only for small canoes. Then, we entered the black waters. The water turned black because of the soil. There were a bunch of trees half under water in the river. We got off the boat and headed into Kraimbit Village where about 800 people live. This village is one of the largest in the area. All of the houses are built on stilts above the water in case there is a flood. The houses are made out of palm tree leaves and other trees.
Scarification
In this village, when boys are 12-15, they go through an initiation into manhood. They entered the men’s house and get their skin carved into patterns with sharp bamboo blades and the wounds are filled with mud until they welt. Then the scabs are ripped off and filled with mud until it healed and becomes an amazing pattern. Our guide said said it was very painful. When the “scarification” was complete, they performed a dance which included instruments made out of gourds and drums. They wore skirts made out of leaves and flowers, necklaces with shells and pig tusks and wigs with red flowers. Right after the dance, Maya fainted then a few minutes later Halle fainted.
Hi JoJo,
Loved the essay. Don’t you wonder how that tradition started. My thinking is it goes something like this. A boy walking through the forest gets all scraped up. He then plays in the mud. His dad yells at him for bringing mud into the house. The young teen being a young teen never wants to be wrong, so he says he meant to do it as it’s the look kids are wearing these day. Father being a father of a teenage boy throws up his hands and walks away. When it is finally healed and has the permanent scarring all the other local boys want to do it and thus a tradition is born. Teen age boys……consistently teaching lessons of what not to do! xo Mrs. M P.S. Cannot wait to give you a big hug when you are back in the hood!
Hi Jolie,
Such a neat way to fish. I am sure you now like fresh fish to eat, and, on this fabulous world tour, you have increased measurably the number of different kinds of food you like. The initiation ceremony sounds gruesome, but that’s a part of their culture. Love your descriptive writing.
Papa
Bravo Jolie,
Your description for Kraimbit village is such an adventure! You let me remember something similar in Africa where I am from, when you talk about initiation into manhood. It seems that people are the same in spite of origin. Thank you so much Jolie. Blessings
Jolie,
Great writing!
Today in school we had art and we did portfolios. I passed out a lot of your artwork and it made me miss you.
Tell Halle it’s ok! I would have fainted too!
-Ellie
Ho Ho,
Be careful. In PNG when they refer to chicken nuggets as the “other white meat” they mean it.
Jolie –
Great write up! It sounds like an exotic adventure and I loved how you described everything. By the end I could totally understand why your sisters could faint. Ouch – about the scarification! xo, Mrs. T
Jolie
That was an incredible write up. I loved all the tales of fishing! Tell your Dad that uncle Andy got a really big striper yesterday. I hope your sisters are feeling better. Love to all. Mrs R